The campfire smell of a firepit outside our window wafts through with each flurry of breeze, the bells of the gospel singing practice that has been belting out hymns next door for the last 90 minutes stll ringing in the air.
It's 9.30 at night, and the village of Ifiri Island is slowly winding down for the night.
Although it's supposedly the dry season, we descended from the clouds into a grey, humid & wet world - it has been raining off and on for the last couple weeks.
"Mother Nature is changing", says Noel, Project Manager for the Kaikai fo Laef project and our guide for this evening.
Tomorrow we meet Eddie, youngest member of the Chief's Council, who will guide us on a tour of this small island on foot (he tells us it will take only an hour or so to walk all the way around).
Meanwhile, a soft bed and pillow await aching travelbones...